Crafts of Romania
While there are great Romanian fine artists, among whom 20th century
sculptor Constantin Brancusi is probably the most famous, the typical zest
for life and almost naïve optimism that the world is really a beautiful
place seem best expressed in the traditional art and craft of Romanian
peasants, extending even to their colorful, unique grave markers. In the
"Merry Cemetery" of Sapanta, in Northern Romania, carved wooden crosses
are painted traditional blue and embellished with fanciful borders,
renderings of the deceased and often anecdotes of their lives.
As in most parts of the world, full-time artists and artisans are drawn
together, tending to form communities throughout the country, where
locales are aesthetically inspiring and economically viable. Bucharest
and a few of the larger towns boast a few galleries showcasing work from
such artist communities, but most don't have galleries. A few examples of
local artists' and artisans' work are shown and sold in town museums, but
most is sold in street markets adjoining major attractions. Sellers
usually are also the makers and some of them speak English. A
conversation with them can reveal fascinating facets of Romanian culture.
Works of Brancusi are in various locales, but one of the finest
collections is in the city of Targu Jiu, in Oltenia province on the
southern border of the Carpathian Mountains. Nearby Horezu is a major
centre for ceramics, wood-carving and iron forging and the Horezu Museum
of Art showcases some of the best work of past and contemporary
artists.
Painted Eggs
The most readily recognizable examples of Romanian art are the famed
painted eggs, especially prominent around Easter time. Painting of real
hollowed-out eggs was an integral part of preparations for this festival
of renewal. Women and children gathered in someone's home and spent a day
painting and gossiping. Intricate patterns were actually secret languages
known only to residents of the regions where they were painted.
The oldest known were painted with aqua fortis (nitric acid) on a
traditional red background. They're available in nearly all shops and
street markets.
Ceramics
Romanian pottery is still made mainly on traditional kick-wheels with
simple finishing tools. Shapes, sizes and patterns reflect the different
clays and cultures of diverse areas where are produced. Color glazes and
decorations vary from strong geometrics, to delicate florals, animals and
humans. There are approximately 30 pottery centres throughout the
country, each with its own distinctive style, but the main areas are in
Horezu in Oltenia, Corund in eastern Transylvania and Radauti and Marginea
in Moldavia.
Wood
Maramures is the area to see the art of woodwork. Homes are trimmed in
elaborately carved wood, wooden gates and even fences are intricately
carved. Historically, in this area, a family's community status was
displayed through the gate — the more elaborate, the more important the
family. The "Merry Cemetery" of Sapanta is in this region, open all year
long, at all times — it's well worth a visit. Hand-carved decorations in
complex patterns hold meanings beyond the purely decorative. Trees of
life, twisted rope, moons, stars, flowers and wolf teeth to ward off evil
spirits are associated with myths and superstitions. They show up in
furniture, spoons, ladles, walking sticks, keepsake chests and other
decorative objects, sometimes embellished with paint. Wooden flutes and
recorders are also elaborately carved. Most prized are the multi-piped
pan flutes, which are now very rare, as few artisans know how to make them
and even fewer know how to play them.
Textiles
At the edge of the street market adjacent to Bran Castle is a peasant
cottage with a window behind which an old woman sits at her loom weaving
and watching the passing scene. She'll invite interested visitors into
her home, where her English-speaking daughter will explain that she's 74
years old and has been weaving since she was seven. She still weaves with
thread she spins herself from sheep her family keeps in their tiny
enclosed courtyard. On view in her tiny weaving room, which is also her
bedroom, is a selection of magnificent throws and spreads that she has
woven. Not for sale, they're priceless examples of this enduring way of
life.
Textile weaving is the most widespread craft in Romania, handed down from
generation to generation, using distinctive family patterns along with
those specific to different districts. Looms still are common in homes
and women weave and embroider from childhood through old age. The
predominant fibers, wool and cotton are woven into rugs, wall hangings,
table covers and clothing. Some Romanian weavers and embroiderers still
work with threads and yarns they produce themselves, but younger weavers
tend to purchase their raw materials. They weave and embroider just about
every cloth article used in their homes, from colorful linen and cotton
towels to window draperies, bedspreads, rugs, wall hangings, furniture
throws and clothing. In a village near Sibiu, part of a bride's dowry is
still a tolic, used to decorate horses of those who ride from house to
house issuing wedding invitations.
Embroidery on folk costumes worn for holidays and special occasions (like
weddings) follows strict regional patterns and serves also as a sort of
secret language known only to people within the different regions. Sibiu
uses graphic black and white motifs, reflecting its Saxon heritage;
southern regions of Arges, Muscel, Dimbovita and Prahova use red, black
maroon, yellow, gold, and silver threads, reflecting influences of the
Ottoman Empire. Buzau uses terra cotta; Oas uses green and Moldavia uses
orange and the Voronet blue made world-famous by its use on the monastery
of the same name. Especially beautiful is cut embroidery on white or ecru
linen and cotton, done throughout the country.
Rugs
While technically textiles, these deserve their own category, because no
other textiles so dramatically reflect their regions of origin. As
varied as different areas' attractions, so too are the rugs that are
displayed on surrounding fences. Most are flat-weave kilims, probably
introduced centuries ago by the controlling Ottoman Empire. Today's
hand-weavers mix traditional vegetable-dyed yarns with commercial
aniline-dyed yarns to produce startling accents within traditional
patterns and colors. Rugs from Oltenia reflect nature, with flowers,
trees and birds. Those of Moldavia have patterns of little branches
repeated in rows to create a tree of life. Rugs from Maramures tend to
have geometric shapes, resembling those from Turkey and the Caucasian
mountains.
Masks
Masks are linked to folk festivals held predominantly in Maramures and
Moldavia. Typically made from the hides of sheep, goats or cows, the
masks are adorned with fabric, hats, pompoms, metallic bits, feathers,
beans, straw and animal horns to represent bears and goats, they're
traditionally worn to welcome in the New Year during a couple weeks in
December and early January.
Glass
The oldest preserved Romanian glass dates back to the Roman Empire.
Currently, there is a renewed passion for creating art in blown glass and
several contemporary Romanian glass artists enjoy world renown. Most of
the professional glass artists are clustered in the northeast, near
Botosani. Glass artisans are also employed in factories located in Avrig,
Turda and Buzau, turning out molded, hand-carved and hand-blown pieces,
many of which are museum quality.
More information on Romanian Crafts:
The non-profit Connecticut-based organization, Aid to Artisans, has
published an excellent guide for anyone interested in fine quality
traditional crafts. Romanian Folk Art presents recognized master
craftspeople, broken down by region. Different regions spawned particular
crafts. Woodworkers developed around vast forests with abundance of
wood. Weavers and embroiderers came from the high plateaus, where sheep
graze.
The following Websites offer Romania crafts:
folk arts - Our vision of the world is one where people can overcome geographic,
social, technological and economic barriers and fully participate in
the beauty of folk arts.
www.romaniandolls.com
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